I don't mind telling you that previous experience deterred me, that and being exceptionally tight for time, money, and thought power simply debarred me from buying something to enjoy in the evenings. Not even a bottle of craft ale, although to my mind ale isn't craft out of a bottle. It is craft from cask. Ah, the joys of growing up in rural Suffolk.
But returning to whisky, I was torn between playing it safe for this malt and remaining faithful to my idea of exploring Speysiders, whenever the next bottle should pass into my mitts. Come a brief breathing space and I found myself seriously contemplating a number of malts, and indeed blends, to enjoy with some light reading from Wodehouse and Sharpe. I believe I have mentioned BenRiach, Cragganmore, and Balvenie, but I rather liked the idea of Aberlour A'bunadh, Benromach, and even an indie Mortlach to go off on a different tangent. However I noticed that Glenrothes' no-age statement bottling was reduced in a supermarket, and having gotten into cycle commuting in London as a cheaper, faster, and more enjoyable way of getting about, I cannot be bothered to train it into Waterloo purely to buy whisky. So I walked into Waitrose, picked up the bottle for around thirty pounds.(the receipt tells me £30.50, a saving of £5.50 from normal price), and returned to peruse the thing.
So, here we are with another Speysider! Glenrothes Distillery is owned by Berry Bros. and Rudd, a reputable and expensive London wine merchant, whilst I believe actually being operated by Edrington. Anyway, Glenrothes doesn't ostensibly bottle its whiskies as an age-statement focussed line, preferring to bottle them by vintage. It is a different approach, and one which I rather like, particularly as the dumpy style bottle is nicely labelled and presented.
The whisky itself is at 43%, which is good because I find that whiskies at 40% can be ruined by the slight over-addition of water. I don't know if it is chill filtered yet (not stuck it in the freezer) and there may be caramel colourant added, which would make sense given the nature of the packaging. See the image below.
(I can now confirm that this is chill-filtered and coloured)
Nose.
Hint of lavender, orange grove at night, Rich malt, sweet, spiced.
Palate
Slightly sweet, spices: Cloves, white pepper, black pepper, ginger, and nutmeg. Dark malt, drying to the finish of bitter dark chocolate. A vanilla tone rises low throughout but becomes prominent as the finish fades.
Dilution
The Glenrothes becomes creamier and softer, the vanilla more pronounced. Very easy to overdo the water here! Drying is made a little more delicate, but that pure bitter cacao is still strong. I can just get hints of the ripe fruit and sultanas that the label proclaims are to be found within.
I rather like this malt. It's certainly unique, and has an edge of energetic youth and a nice freshness to start with, but it's all about that strong malty dryness that lends itself to that intriguing finish. Really, really moreish. I'm unsure as to what this was matured in. There is a bourbon influence here, but also a drying sherry taste, and a slightly twisty attitude to the spice and bitterness which never becomes woody.
Oddly enough, the nose and some of the feel and flavour puts me in mind of the previous malt, that one dares not speak of here. This is a much more rounded malt: the young does not clash with the old and the flavours fit rather than fight. It's not embarrassed in price point company either, and is a definite step up from true premium blends like Black Label and Chivas. At what I paid, it's excellent value, at £35 reasonable. It has also made me curious as to what the vintage versions are like, which undoubtedly ticks a strategist's box somewhere.
So, we come past the halfway point. My feelings at this point in time? Whilst Speyside has quite a bit to offer, I find myself wanting something a little less general, a little less conscious of industrial targets and convention. The stereotype flavour profile is wearing a bit thin. I note that AncCnoc has just released two new peated whiskies, beyond my price point, but maybe BenRiach or Benromach can show me a flash of speed?
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